Denim is a sturdy cotton warp-faced[1] textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. This twill weaving produces a diagonal...

Denim is a sturdy cotton warp-faced^[1] textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. This twill weaving produces a diagonal ribbing that distinguishes it from cotton duck.

The most common denim is indigo denim, in which the warp thread is dyed, while the weft thread is left white. As a result of the warp-faced twill weaving, one side of the textile is dominated by the blue warp threads and the other side is dominated by the white weft threads. This causes blue jeans to be white on the inside. The indigo dyeing process, in which the core of the warp threads remains white, creates denim's signature fading characteristics.

Dry or raw denim[edit]

See also: Stone washing

Dry or raw denim (contrasted with "washed denim") is denim that is not washed after having been dyed during production.

After being made into an article of clothing, most denim articles are washed to make them softer and to reduce or eliminate shrinkage(which could cause the article to not fit properly after its owner washes it). In addition to being washed, "washed denim" is sometimes artificially distressed to produce a "worn" look. Much of the appeal of artificially distressed denim is that it resembles dry denim which has faded. In jeans made from dry denim, such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears them and by the activities of their daily life. This process creates what many enthusiasts feel to be a look more "natural" than artificially distressed denim.^[6]Over time, dry denim will usually fade, which is considered desirable by some people.^{[by whom?]} During the process of wear, fading will usually occur on those parts of the article that receive the most stress. On a pair of jeans, this includes the upper thighs, the ankles, and the areas behind the knees.

To facilitate the natural distressing process, some wearers of dry denim will abstain from washing their jeans for more than six months.^[7]Most dry denim is made with 100% cotton and comes from several different countries. In particular, the United States, Zimbabwe and Japan are popular sources of cotton for making raw denim.^[6]

Dry denim also varies in weight, typically measured in by the weight of a yard of denim in ounces. 12 Oz. or less is considered light denim, 12 Oz. to 16 Oz. is considered mid-weight, and over 16 Oz. is considered heavy weight. Heavier denim is much more rigid and resistant to wear, but can also take more wears to break in and feel comfortable.^[6]

Patterns of fading in jeans, caused by prolonged periods of wearing them without washing, have become the main allure of dry denim. Such patterns are a way of "personalizing" the garment.^[8]

These patterns have specific names:

• Combs or honeycombs – These are faded lines that are found behind the knees.
• Whiskers – Faded streaks that surround the crotch area of the jeans.
• Stacks – These are created by having the inseam of the jeans hemmed a few inches longer than the actual leg length. The extra fabric then stacks on top of the shoe, causing a faded area to form around the ankle, extending up to the calf area.
• Train tracks – These appear on the outseams of the denim. This pattern showcases the selvage by forming two parallel lines of fades which resemble train trac

Garments Pattern and Pattern Making Methods..

Introduction of pattern: Garment construction is always advantageous and time saving if we follow certain principles of work. There are great benefits of paper pattern making. It proves to be time...

Introduction of pattern:

Garment construction is always advantageous and time saving if we follow certain principles of work. There are great benefits of paper pattern making. It proves to be time saving. There are certain precautions to be maintaining while making the paper pattern. Paper pattern should be made on a full scale paper.
The smooth side of brown paper should be used for the pattern. The measurement booklet should be kept nearby. The drafting should be done in fine and clear lines only, the chalk or the pencil to be used. Notches should be fixed at all the signs of designs, darts, pleats, balance marks, pockets, etc.
Paper pattern made in institutions etc. At the training level are made on the basis of basic measurements given. Paper pattern made at the tailoring shops are for individuals and these are made over seeing the body structure. People, who can’t do drafting, take the help of these patterns for layouts and cutting of the garmen.

Paper pattern made in institutions etc. At the training level are made on the basis of basic measurements given. Paper pattern made at the tailoring shops are for individuals and these are made over seeing the body structure. People, who can’t do drafting, take the help of these patterns for layouts and cutting of the garment
 .
Definition of pattern:
Hard body copy of each component of the garments of exact dimension of each component is called pattern.
The pattern includes seam allowance, trimming allowance, dirt, pleat, hem, ease allowance & any special design etc. Pattern design could be done manually or with the help of computer.
Dart:
The purpose of a dart is to eliminate excessive fabric in a pattern so that it can be formed into a 3-dimentional shape to conform to the body shape.

Classification of pattern:

There are two types of pattern

1. Block pattern
2. Garments pattern

Block pattern:

Block pattern is main pattern which is called basic block. This pattern is produced by the particular & standard body measurement of a body without decoration, design & style. It made with average body measurement of child, young man & women.
Block pattern is produced by two ways or method:
Flat method:
The individual components parts of garments particularly body & sleeve are produced by drawing. It may be produced by manual or computer. Pattern can be done quickly in this system its use is lessModeling system:
Modeling system is the first & fundamental system of pattern making. In this system a block is made by standard dummy which is called toile & this toile puts on the dummy. Then it removes from the dummy & different parts of garments to be drawn on the hard paper. This system is the most exact or perfect but it takes more times.

Garments pattern:

This pattern which is produced with the help of block pattern or basic block is called garments pattern. This pattern is placed on the board paper for producing copy with the pencil. Or marker. It is create by duplicating and modifying the final pattern to generate all the pattern pieces.
It is usually made from card or plastic. Appropnate seam allowances are added. It becomes the master pattern for grading. Garments pattern has worked in many processes.

Contents of Paper Patterns :

Margin: Extra safety margins are cut beyond the actual cutting line to make adjustments while stitching. Margins are generally allowed on upholstery items such as sofa slip covers.
Cutting line: This is the actual line on which garments are cut.
Stitching line: Paper pattern shows the exact stitching line so that the person stitching the garment will identify where exactly the actual stitching has to be done.
Fold line: When there are two sides to a pattern such as back & front side then the fold line the pattern has to be clearly indicated marking it as Fold Line.
Grain line: Every pattern piece has an arrow indicating the grain line – whether the fabric has to be cut on straight or cross grain, Collars, cuffs and other trimmings are cut on the cross grain to give a better finish to the garment.
Construction details: Tucks, darts, button holes, centre front, centre back, pocket markings, buttons, style features of the garment are all shown on the paper pattern’.
Graceful curves and shapes wherever required on the paper pattern are also clearly indicated
Pattern size and particulars like front, back, sleeve, collar, cuff etc are shown.
If necessary the pattern can also suggest and explain the steps in preparing the garment like marking, cutting and stitching the garment. This is generally done in a commercial pattern to enable the sewer to use the pattern correctly.

Computer –aided pattern design:

Computer –aided pattern design systems are similar to these used for fashion design, with the below given additions. Digitizing board and pattern scanner, either a drum or a flat bed plotter. In some cases, a flat bed pattern cutter for cutting patterns out of card or plastic. Some potters also convert to pattern cutters.
The useful procedure is to digitize or scan a basic block pattern into computer memory and adapt it. Textile designs may also be superimposed onto pattern-
The computer-aided pattern design are the innovations that are continually taking place including. Programs that automatically generate bespoke patterns for men’s suits. Systems that improve the interface between the pattern designer and the computer.

Pattern grading:

Pattern for different size garments are derived from the master pattern using grading. Simple 2D grading changes height and girth measurements by a constant amount for each size. With 3D grading, as size changes, differential changes in pattern dimensions are required.
Pattern design and adaption are normally performed on a single size of pattern. Since people vary in size and stature, a range of pattern is required. A technique called grading is used to generate patterns for larger and smaller sizes from a standard size pattern.
Grading must be done accurately. Errors that occur when a size is graded will produce similar errors in all other sizes which can result in time and resource wastage.

Grading system:

In 3D grading, grade points are allocated to key locations (zero points) on the pattern. Grade rules specify horizontal and vertical displacements for these points, as size is increased or decreased. These grade rules are compiled into a grade rule library. Once the library is created, it may be used for similar pattern.

Marker making:

In lay planning, the pattern places are arranged for cutting. Markers provide plans of the arrangement and are drawn on the fabric or used as guides for cutting. The aim of lay planning and marker making is to ensure the most efficient use of the fabric.
The three methods of marker making are as follows.

1. Drawing pattern outlines onto the marker.
2. Making directly onto the fabric
3. Spray marking

Drawing pattern outlines onto the marker:

To draw pattern outlines onto the marker, a pencil, pen or chalk is used. It is the most convenient marker technique in which the fabric is invariably used on the fold.

Directly Making:

To mark directly onto the fabric, card patterns are laid onto the materials and chalked around using pipe-clay or wax. This method is the least accurate because of the difficulty in making on woolen or napped fabrics and unless the chalk is sharp one or two centimeters variations in pattern size may result.

Spray marking:

In spray marking, fine jets of paint are sprayed over the patterns that have been laid on the fabric, leaving an outline of the patterns when they are removed. This method is faster than chalking. However

• More fabric is required to allow gaps for paints.
• Paint can leak under the pattern edges.
• Pattern sizes grow as layers of point build up, and the machine must be cleaned every day.

Fabric spreading:

To allow several pieces to be cut from the same pattern, fabric is spread to produce a lay of plies. The pieces can then be simultaneously cut out using the marker on top. Depending on their properties. Fabrics are spread differently.
Spreading is the process of stacking layers of fabric to allow simultaneous cutting. The fabric must be laid flat in single or multiple layers. The marker is placed on top of the spread. One edge of each of the fabric layers must be aligned. Tension free devices, electronic edge sensors, and electric knives are used to ensure alignment requirements are met. Other materials that may be spread layers are-

1. Interleaving tissue
2. Ant fusion paper

Conclusion of pattern:

Pattern making is a highly skilled technique which calls for technical ability, and a sensitivity to interpret a design with a practical understanding of garment construction. For successful dress designing patternmaking forms the fundamental step. This function connects design to production by producing paper templates for all components such as cloth, hemming, fusible etc. which have to be cut for completing a specific garment. So pattern making is too necessary of fabric measurement. It is the important part of garments.

Stylish shirt

A shirt is a cloth garment for the upper body. Originally an undergarment worn only  by men, it has become, in American English, a catch-all term for a broad variety of upper-body garments and...

A shirt is a cloth garment for the upper body.
Originally an undergarment worn only  by men, it has become, in American English, a catch-all term for a broad variety of upper-body garments and undergarments. In British English, a shirt is more specifically a garment with a collar, sleeves with cuffs, and a full plumb opening with buttons or snaps would call that a   shirt can also be worn with a necktie under the shirt collar.

Types of fabric

There are two main categories of fibres used: natural fibre and man-made fibre.Some natural fibres are linen, the first used historically, hemp, cotton, the most used, ramie, wool, silk and more recently bamboo or soya. Some synthetic fibres are polyester, tencel, viscose, etc. Polyester mixed with cotton  is often used. Fabrics for shirts are called shirtings. The four main weaves for shirtings are plain weave, oxford, twill and satin. Broadcloth, poplin and end-on-end are variations of the plain weave. After weaving, finishing can be applied to the fabric.

Types of shirt 

There are many type of shirt like as
1. Camp shirt
2. Dress shirt
3. Dinner shirt
4. Poet shirt
5. T-shirt
6. Ringer T-shirt
7.Halfshirt
8. sleeveless shirt
9.polo shirt
10.sweatshirt

Parts of shirt

Many terms are used to describe and differentiate types of shirts and their construction. The smallest differences may have significance to a cultural or occupational group. Recently it has become common to use tops to carry messages or advertising. Many of these distinctions apply to other upper-body garments, such as coats and sweaters.

SHORT

Shorts are a garment worn by both men and women over their pelvic area, circling the waist and splitting to cover the upper part of the legs, sometimes extending down to the knees but...

Shorts are a garment worn by both men and women over their pelvic area, circling the waist and splitting to cover the upper part of the legs, sometimes extending down to the knees but not covering the entire length of the leg. They are called "shorts" because they are a shortened version of trousers, which cover the entire leg. Shorts are typically worn in warm weather or in an environment where comfort and air flow are more important than the protection of the legs..

 

 

There are a variety of shorts, ranging from knee-length short trousers that can in some situations be worn as formal clothes to beachwear and athletic shorts. Some types of shorts are typically worn by women, such as culottes, which are a divided skirt resembling a pair of loose-cut shorts.

Adults are also commonly seen wearing shorts, however wearing shorts is less common among women in traditional eastern countries than in the West, although this varies widely by region - women more often wear shorts in large, cosmopolitan cities. In some countries adult women can be seen wearing loose-fitting shorts that end at or just below the knee, as these are seen as sufficiently modest.

Stylish frock

Frock has been used since Middle English as the name for an article of clothing for women. In British English and in Commonwealth countries the word is used as an alternative term for a girl's or woman's...

Frock has been used since Middle English as the name for an article of clothing for women. In British English and in Commonwealth countries the word is used as an alternative term for a girl's or woman's dress. In Australia it is frequently used this way, with the phrase "to frock up" meaning to wear a formal dress or gown for a special occasion..

Originally, a frock was a loose, long garment with wide, full sleeves, such as the habit of a monk or priest, commonly belted. (This is the origin of the modern term defrock or unfrock, meaning "to eject from the priesthood"

The term has been continually applied to various types of clothing, generally denoting a loosely fitted garment.
The precise historical evolution of the frock after the second half of the 18th century is obscure, however it is likely that the frock was gradually supplanted by the frock coat in the early 19th century, eventually being relegated to evening dress. The frock coat in turn became cut away into the modern coat, giving us the two modern coats with tails.

• Frock is also a woman’s or girl’s dress.
• Frock (especially in the phrase "short frock") can be a child's dress or light overdress.
• A frock is a dense knitted overgarment worn by sailors and fishermen, as guernsey frock, jersey frock (now usually simply guernsey and jersey).
• The name "oil frock" has been used for a type of sailor's oilskin.

SUIT

In clothing, a suit is a set of garments made from the same cloth, usually consisting of at least a jacket and trousers. Lounge suits (also known as business suits when...

In clothing, a suit is a set of garments made from the same cloth, usually consisting of at least a jacket and trousers. Lounge suits (also known as business suits when sober in colour and style), which originated in Britain as country wear, are the most common style of Western suit. Other types of suit still worn today are thedinner suit, part of black tie, which arose as a lounging alternative to dress coats in much the same way as the day lounge suit came to replace frock coats and morning coats; and, rarely worn today, the morning suit. This article discusses the lounge suit elements of informal dress code.

The variations in design, cut, and cloth, such as two- and three- piece, or single- and double- breasted, determine the social and work amplitude of the garment. Often, suits are worn, as is traditional, with a collared shirt and necktie. Until around the 1960s, as with all men's clothes, a hat would have been also worn when the wearer was outdoors. Suits also come with different numbers of pieces a two-piece suit has a jacket and the trousers; a three piece adds a waistcoat  further pieces might include a flat cap made from the same cloth.

Originally, as with most clothes, a tailor made the suit from his client's selected cloth; these are now often known as bespoke suits. The suit was custom made to the measurements, taste, and style of the man. Since the Industrial Revolution, most suits are mass-produced, and, as such, are sold as ready-to-wear garments .Currently, suits are sold in roughly four ways:

• bespoke, in which the garment is custom-made by a tailor from a pattern created entirely from the customer's measurements, giving the best fit and free choice of fabric;
• made to measure, in which a pre-made pattern is modified to fit the customer, and a limited selection of options and fabrics is available;
• ready-to-wear or off-the-peg, which is sold ready to be tailored or finally as
• suit separates where jacket and trousers are sold separately, allowing a customer to choose the size that is best for them and limit the amount of alterations needed.
  

Polo Shirt

A polo shirt, also known as a golf shirt and tennis shirt, is a form of shirt with a collar, a placket with typically two or three buttons, and an optional pocket.All...

A polo shirt, also known as a golf shirt and tennis shirt, is a form of shirt with a collar, a placket with typically two or three buttons, and an optional pocket.All three terms may be used interchangeably. Polo shirts are usually made of knitted cloth. usually piqué cotton or, less commonly, silk, merinowool, or synthetic fibers. A dress-length version of the shirt is called a polo dress.

GOLF

Over the latter half of the 20th century, as standard clothing in golf became more casual, the tennis shirt was adopted nearly universally as standard golf attire.Many golf courses and country clubs require players to wear golf shirts as a part of their dress code. Moreover, producing Lacoste’s "tennis shirt" in various golf cuts has resulted in specific designs of the tennis shirt for golf, resulting in the moniker "golf shirt". Golf shirts are commonly made out of polyester, cotton and polyester blends, or mercerized cotton. 

The placket typically holds three or four buttons, and consequently extends lower than the typical polo neckline. The collar is typically fabricated using a stitched double-layer of the same fabric used to make the shirt, in contrast to a polo shirt collar, which is usually one-ply ribbed knit cotton. Golf shirts often have a pocket on the left side, to hold a scorepad and pencil, and may not bear a logo there.